Any facility that offers rides to tourists is abusing the elephants to keep them controllable while it is being ridden or painted over by humans.
Instead look for shelters that house rescued animals, that do not offer rides to tourists, and in fact work towards sensitizing the public about issues related to wildlife conservation and welfare or Sanctuaries and National Parks where you can see wild elephants.
That said, however, beware as many private and abusive elephant tourist spots will claim to be sanctuaries/rescue centres and claim their elephants are rescued, when they are actually bought and continue to be exploited for tourist entertainment and commercial activities such as parades, temple ceremonies and other functions.